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PREFACE

The letters of which these volumes are composed embrace the second half of journeys in the East extending over a period of two years.[1] They attempt to be a faithful record of facts and impressions, but were necessarily written in haste at the conclusion of fatiguing marches, and often in circumstances of great discomfort and difficulty, and I relied for their correction in the event of publication on notes made with much care. Unfortunately I was robbed of nearly the whole of these, partly on my last journey in Persia and partly on the Turkish frontier,?a serious loss, which must be my apology to the reader for errors which, without this misfortune, would not have occurred.

The bibliography of Persia is a very extensive one, and it may well be that I have little that is new to communicate, except on a part of Luristan previously untraversed by Europeans; but each traveller receives a different impression from those made upon his predecessors, and I hope that my book may be accepted as an honest attempt to make a popular contribution to the sum of knowledge of a country and people with which we are likely to be brought into closer relations. viii

As these volumes are simply travels in Persia and Eastern Asia Minor, and are not a book on either country, the references to such subjects as were not within the sphere of my observation are brief and incidental. The administration of government, the religious and legal systems, the tenure of land, and the mode of taxation are dismissed in a few lines, and social customs are only described when I came in contact with them. The Ilyats, or nomadic tribes, form a very remarkable element of the population of Persia, but I have only noticed two of their divisions?the Bakhtiari and Feili Lurs. The antiquities of Persia are also passed over with hardly a remark, a

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Journeys in Persia and Kurdistan-
Volume I
Journeys in Persia and Kurdistan
PREFACE
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
GLOSSARY
LETTER I
LETTER II
LETTER III
LETTER IV
LETTER V
LETTER VI
LETTER VII
LETTER VIII
NOTES ON TIHRAN
LETTER IX
LETTER X
LETTER XI
LETTER XII
LETTER XIII
LETTER XIV
NOTES ON THE 'BAKHTIARI COUNTRY' OR LURI-BUZURG
LETTER XIV.
LETTER XV
Volume 2
JOURNEYS   IN  PERSIA AND KURDISTAN.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
LETTER XVI
LETTER XVII
LETTER XVIII
LETTER XIX
LETTER XX
LETTER XXI
LETTER XXII
LETTER XXIII
LETTER XXIV
LETTER XXV
LETTER XXVI
NOTES ON PROTESTANT MISSIONS IN URMI
LETTER XXVII
FAREWELL IMPRESSIONS OF PERSIA
LETTER XXVIII
LETTER XXIX
LETTER XXX
LETTER XXXI
LETTER XXXII
LETTER XXXIII
LETTER XXXIV
LETTER XXXV
APPENDIX
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